Lancaster Avenue

Essay

Extending through West Philadelphia into Philadelphia’s western suburbs, Lancaster Avenue has defined a corridor for commerce and community development from the colonial era to the twenty-first century. Named for its destination city more than sixty-five miles away from its origin near Thirty-Second and Market Streets in Philadelphia, the road also memorializes the important commercial, social, and political interactions between Philadelphia and Lancaster during the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.

Drawing of a large house with two vehicles in front
At the Eagle Hotel on the Lancaster Turnpike in Chester County, a stagecoach with a mail compartment (left) is depicted sharing the road with a Conestoga wagon. This 1852 illustration recreated the scene of “early days.” (National Archives and Records Administration)

Pennsylvania founder William Penn (1644-1718) authorized a road extending west from his port city to the interior in 1697, but like many colonial-era roads at that time it remained little more than a tramped-over expansion of earlier Indian trails that traversed the region. Impetus for improving the road gained strength as settlers, primarily Germans, moved into the far reaches of Chester County near the Susquehanna River—the area designated as Lancaster County in 1729. In addition to moving agricultural goods to market, during the eighteenth century the roadway became known as the “Great Wagon Road” as it enabled thousands of migrants to move into the backcountry of Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, and North Carolina.

A Commercial Lifeline

The Philadelphia-Lancaster Road supported increasing ties between Philadelphia and the new county seat town of Lancaster. Founded in 1729, Lancaster originated as a proprietorship of prominent Philadelphia lawyer Andrew Hamilton (c. 1676-1741), who then served as Speaker of the Pennsylvania Assembly, and his son James (1710-83), also a lawyer and future lieutenant governor of Pennsylvania. The elder Hamilton laid out Lancaster in the image of Philadelphia, with a central square for public buildings and a grid plan of streets. The new town site had an unusual location away from major waterways, but it benefited from the Philadelphia-Lancaster Road, which as King Street ran straight through the middle of town. As Lancaster grew, its merchants ordered goods from Philadelphia and formed partnerships with Philadelphia enterprises; the merchandise hauled by wagon to Lancaster served not only the townspeople but also nearby communities in Pennsylvania and the population spreading into the southern backcountry. As a market town, Lancaster served as a point of exchange for the agricultural production of an extensive hinterland. People, freight, crops, and animals all moved on the Philadelphia-Lancaster Road between the interior and Pennsylvania’s major port in Philadelphia. The road also made Lancaster a natural choice for refugees from Philadelphia during the British Occupation of 1777-78, and it facilitated the movement of the Continental Congress to temporary quarters in nearby York.

Map depicting Lancaster Avenue west of Philadelphia
Labeled “Turnpike,” Lancaster Avenue extends westward from Philadelphia in this detail of an 1835 map of the West Philadelphia Railroad (depicted in red). (Library of Congress)

In 1795, the Philadelphia-Lancaster Road became the first turnpike in the United States, which led to improvements such as crushed-stone pavement, widening and straightening, and improved drainage for all-weather travel. Inns and taverns opened at close intervals along the improved route, and stagecoach services contributed to the growth of towns between Philadelphia and Lancaster, including Downingtown and Coatesville in Chester County. For Philadelphia, Lancaster Pike—together with Market Street, Baltimore Pike, and Darby Road—enabled trade and travel from the Pennsylvania hinterland to the ferries and bridges that crossed the Schuylkill River into the city. (Prior to the Consolidation Act of 1854, the city limits did not extend west of the Schuylkill.)

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, Lancaster Avenue evolved as a commercial spine for adjacent neighborhoods in West Philadelphia and towns in the city’s western suburbs. Transportation helped to spur new development. During the 1830s, the Philadelphia and Columbia Railway ran parallel to the Lancaster Pike; after acquisition by the Pennsylvania Railroad in 1850, this “Main Line” became a corridor for development of suburban estates for the wealthy. (More modest homes closest to Lancaster Pike accommodated business proprietors and staff for the estates.) Within West Philadelphia, horse-drawn omnibuses for commuters began to travel Lancaster Pike in 1858 with the founding of the Hestonville, Mantua, and Fairmount Horse Car Passenger Railway. The horse cars enabled commuting between central Philadelphia and developing neighborhoods such as Powelton, Mantua, and Hestonville (at Lancaster and Fifty-Second Street). Lancaster Pike in West Philadelphia became lined with two- and three-story brick buildings, most of them commercial enterprises.

Hospitals, Churches, Schools

Color illustration of gothic style church
Churches and other institutions developed along Lancaster Avenue during the nineteenth century. This c. 1868 lithograph depicts Our Mother of Sorrows Catholic Church and Cathedral Cemetery near Forty-Eighth Street and Lancaster Avenue. (Library Company of Philadelphia)

Transportation also made Lancaster Pike a prime location for institutions and organizations founded during the nineteenth century, among them the Rush Hospital for Consumption, the Presbyterian Hospital, the Blind Women’s Home, and the Industrial Home for the Working Blind. Religious institutions included a Hicksite Quaker Meeting House and a cluster of Gothic-revival churches in Overbrook, which developed in the 1890s adjacent to the city’s western boundary. In the suburbs, colleges and universities with Lancaster Pike (or Avenue) addresses included Haverford College, founded by Quakers as a men’s college in 1833, and Villanova University, founded for Roman Catholic men in 1842.

Photograph of two people talking on the sidewalk outside storefronts on Lancaster Avenue
Olivine McCoy and Donovan Sharp, in the foreground of this 1976 photograph, were among the business owners who reactivated the Lancaster Avenue Business Association in the 1970s. (Special Collections Research Center, Temple University Libraries)

In the early twentieth century, Lancaster Avenue within Philadelphia became an important center for African American commerce as the Great Migration from the South added to the Black population of West Philadelphia. Shoppers could patronize Black-owned and white-owned furniture stores, markets, pharmacies, and more. Amid the business activity, Black Muslims established a presence on Lancaster Avenue during the 1950s and 1960s, and Muhammad’s Temple of Islam #12 relocated from North Philadelphia to 4218 Lancaster Avenue in 1957. The temple’s teachers and administrators included Malcolm X (1925-65) and Imam Warith Deen (Wallace D.) Muhammed (1933-2008). Lancaster Avenue’s centrality for Black Philadelphians led to a visit by the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr. (1929-68), who spoke at a massive rally at Fortieth Street and Lancaster Avenue in 1965 during his Freedom Now campaign.

The road between Philadelphia and Lancaster gained additional attention and significance in 1913, when it became part of the coast-to-coast Lincoln Highway (later designated U.S. 30). But as a commercial corridor, Lancaster Avenue reflected the fortunes of adjacent neighborhoods. In West Philadelphia, decline and disinvestment on the avenue can be traced to practices of the federal Home Owners’ Loan Corporation (HOLC), which created long-lasting stigmas of racial, ethnic, and class inequality with its 1937 maps of neighborhood characteristics. The HOLC included Lancaster Avenue between Thirty-Second and Thirty-Seventh Street in a zone north of Market Street deemed “hazardous” (redlined) on the basis of obsolete properties, the “concentration of Negroes and Italians,” and the large number of families on relief during the Great Depression. The designation contributed to the area’s decline by branding it a bad risk for mortgage lenders. Neighborhoods farther west fared better in the HOLC surveys, but only Overbrook adjacent to the western city limit received the highest ranking of “best.” There, the surveyors found a restricted neighborhood with no immigrants or African Americans; they predicted desirability for the next ten to fifteen years but noted part of the area as “threatened with Italian expansion.”

Urban Renewal Zones

The HOLC judgments set the stage for later urban renewal demolitions and, by the twenty-first century, redevelopment projects and plans. During the 1950s and 1960s, three urban renewal zones included portions of Lancaster Avenue in Philadelphia: one for the northward expansion of Drexel University (overlaying Lancaster Avenue between Thirty-Third and Thirty-Fourth Streets); another to create the University City Science Center and University City High School (with Lancaster Avenue as its northern boundary between Thirty-Fourth and Thirty-Eighth Streets); and a third for construction of public housing (impacting Lancaster Avenue between Forty-Fourth and Fifty-Second Streets). Demolitions and displacements contributed to a decline in population that drained economic vitality from many Lancaster Avenue businesses, leaving many buildings from more prosperous times vacant and deteriorating.

From the 1960s through the 2020s, attention to redeveloping Lancaster Avenue and nearby neighborhoods arose from adjacent communities, city planning agencies, private developers, and universities. Turning away from the urban renewal strategies of demolition, community-engaged planning led to revitalization projects such as murals reflecting community history, street-cleaning, façade improvements, and initiatives to attract new businesses. Attention to public spaces included a monument at Fortieth and Lancaster Avenue to commemorate the speech given there by Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Although far less active than its height in the early twentieth century, Lancaster Avenue retained a core of small businesses, especially between Fortieth and Forty-Second Streets. To the southeast, at Thirty-Sixth Street, a partnership including Drexel University anchored the eastern segment of the avenue with a building for life science companies called UCity Square, opened in 2023. The university’s expansion and private developers’ interest in building market-rate housing for students grew to the point that neighbors in Powelton mobilized to protect historic buildings; they included most of Lancaster Avenue between Thirty-Fourth and Fortieth Street in their nomination of the Powelton Village Historic District, which was added to the Philadelphia Register of Historic Places in 2022.

Although much changed from its origins as an Indian trail and dirt road between Philadelphia and Lancaster, Lancaster Avenue (or Lancaster Pike) remained the roadway’s local street name in Philadelphia and the western suburbs. In the early twenty-first century, a diagonal walkway through the campus of Drexel University marked the point of origin for the historic highway, which reached westward through businesses and rowhouses in West Philadelphia, into the western suburbs and countryside, to reach its destination city of Lancaster, Pennsylvania.

Charlene Mires is Professor Emerita of History at Rutgers University-Camden and formerly Editor-in-Chief of The Encyclopedia of Greater Philadelphia. (Information current at time of publication.)

Copyright 2024, Rutgers University.

Gallery

Lancaster Turnpike Crossroads

National Archives

This illustration created in 1852 depicted “early days” on the Lancaster Turnpike. A stagecoach with a mail compartment is shown arriving at the Eagle Hotel in Chester County. A Conestoga wagon shared the road. Inns and taverns opened at close intervals along the turnpike, and stagecoach services contributed to the growth of towns between Philadelphia and Lancaster, including Downingtown and Coatesville in Chester County.

Approach from the West, 1835

Library of Congress

This detail from an 1835 plan for the West Philadelphia Railroad (indicated in red) depicts the roads from Philadelphia’s western hinterland converging near the Schuylkill River opposite the grid of the central city. Together with Market Street, Baltimore Pike, and Darby Road, Lancaster Avenue (labeled “Turnpike”) enabled trade and travel from the countryside into the city. The map also depicts residential development of Hamiltonville and Mantua Village in West Philadelphia. To enlarge and explore the map, link to the Library of Congress.

Lancaster Turnpike During the Civil War

Library of Congress

The Lancaster Turnpike, which mostly followed the Philadelphia-Lancaster Road, in use throughout the eighteenth century , proved a tremendous success for Pennsylvania. The earlier Great Wagon Road had enabled migrants and freight to move across southeastern Pennsylvania into the backcountry of Maryland, Virginia, and North Carolina. In 1792, the state chartered the Philadelphia and Lancaster Turnpike Road Company to complete the new road by 1795. The company sold shares of stock, valued at $300 each, to fund the project under the leadership of William Bingham (1742-1804). The importance and success of the Lancaster Turnpike had larger repercussions around the United States, spurring the construction of almost 12,000 miles of turnpikes by the 1830s.

This map, stretching from Villanova to Paoli, displayed the turnpike’s importance in 1863, at the height of the American Civil War. Alexander Dallas Bache (1806-1867), an army engineer, oversaw the construction of fortifications surrounding Philadelphia and saw to the reconnaissance of the turnpike. As a long and paved road, Confederate armies from Virginia and North Carolina could have used it to advance quickly on Philadelphia along the northwestern approach. Due to that threat, Bache had artillery batteries constructed north of Paoli near Summit Point and a station of the Pennsylvania Central Railroad. The Lancaster Turnpike held both civilian importance—with the movement of agricultural goods and people—and military importance—with the movement of supplies and troops. To enlarge and explore the map, link to the Library of Congress

Lancaster Avenue at Forty-Eighth Street, 1875

Library Company of Philadelphia

Churches and other institutions developed along Lancaster Avenue during the nineteenth century. This c. 1868 lithograph depicts Our Mother of Sorrows Catholic Church and Cathedral Cemetery near Forty-Eighth Street and Lancaster Avenue. The land, purchased by Bishop Francis Patrick Kenrick in 1849, was earlier the site of St. Gregory’s Church. Construction on the new Gothic-style church shown here began in 1867. The lithograph also depicts St. Johns Orphan Asylum and the gatehouse to Cathedral Cemetery.

Transit Artery, 1965

Flickr

In West Philadelphia, Lancaster Avenue developed into an important transit artery. In this 1965 photograph, a Philadelphia Transit Commission trolley on the Malvern line approaches Girard Avenue. The streetscape illustrates the variety of residential and institutional buildings that had developed along the avenue by the middle of the twentieth century. (Photograph by Roger Puta)

Business District, 1976

Special Collections Research Center, Temple University Libraries

Lancaster Avenue in West Philadelphia became an important center of African American commerce in the early twentieth century as the Great Migration from the South added to Philadelphia’s Black population. Olivine McCoy and Donovan Sharp, in the foreground of this 1976 photograph, were among the business owners who reactivated the Lancaster Avenue Business Association in the 1970s.

Lancaster Walk, 2019

During the 1950s and 1960s, three urban renewal zones included portions of Lancaster Avenue in Philadelphia, including one for the northward expansion of Drexel University. The origination point of Lancaster Avenue in West Philadelphia can be found on Drexel’s campus, where the diagonal Lancaster Walk has replaced the historic roadway. (Encyclopedia of Greater Philadelphia photograph)

Related Topics

Themes

Time Periods

Locations

Essays

Related Reading

Ellis, Franklin, and Samuel Evans. Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Philadelphia: Everts & Peck, 1883.

Kuncio, Gerald M. “Road and Highway Resources of Southeastern Pennsylvania, 1681-1970.” National Register of Historic Places Multiple Property Documentation Form, 2013. Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission Historic Contexts Studies.

Landis, Charles I. “History of the Philadelphia and Lancaster Turnpike: The First Long Turnpike in the United States.” Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography, Vol. 42, No. 1 (1918): 1-28 and continued in subsequent issues.

Rouse, Parke Jr. The Great Wagon Road: From Philadelphia to the South. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1973.

Weingroff, Richard F. “The Lincoln Highway.” Federal Highway Administration, U.S. Department of Transportation.

Wolf-Powers, Laura. University City: History, Race, and Community in the Era of the Innovation District. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2022.

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